How To Punish Bad Puppy Behavior (Dogs Under 6 mos)
Punishing a dog’s behavior is already a controversial topic. Not that it should be. Punishment is literally, by definition, the only way to eliminate behaviors. But what is even more controversial, and shrouded in mystery because nobody wants to talk about it, is punishing a puppy’s bad behaviors.
The truth is we have a different set of rules we go by when it comes to puppies (which we are defining as dogs under 6 months of age).
So I’m going to dive into what we correct and how we correct it. And also how we avoid allowing puppy to do things we don’t like when we aren’t correcting it. The key to all of this is:
- Structure (lots of crate time and no free roaming)
- Lots of 1 on 1 engagement and puppy has a leash on
- Establishing priorities as far as which behaviors need to be addressed now
Typically, this is biting/mouthing, jumping, and fussing in the kennel.
- Using a safe and effective means of correction for those things we want to knock out right away.
We typically use a bonker, a leash pop, or a poke in the side, or for biting I will squeeze puppy’s lips around their own teeth until it is uncomfortable for them. So… Kind of like biting them back.
These are all things that people will be horrified by, but my experience has been that this is how you effectively shape behavior which results in the best relationship. It also results in a confident, resilient, and respectful adult dog. Most of the things people say will happen (like damaging your relationship and traumatizing the dog) are imagined. They aren’t real. In my experience this never happens.
But people do create this story in their head. My experience is based on hundreds or thousands of dogs. And the results have been consistent across the board. There is no reason people should struggle with bad behavior or allow their relationship to go off the rails with their puppy because they are afraid to correct them. As long as you incorporate the structure piece so your puppy isn’t always getting into trouble. 99% of what you do with your puppy will in fact be lots of food work.
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Minute-by-Minute Breakdown
- 00:00 – Kati opens by asking listeners to subscribe and frames the episode around puppy correction.
- 01:00 – She says puppy episodes are less common but valuable, and this one focuses on inhibiting unwanted behavior.
- 02:00 – She references prior puppy episodes and says this episode will cover how to stop behaviors you dislike.
- 03:00 – She warns against trying to correct every puppy behavior immediately because it leads to constant chasing.
- 04:00 – She criticizes letting puppies roam behind gates and says that is not enough structure.
- 05:00 – She recommends using the kennel more because it builds coping skills and reduces potty accidents.
- 06:00 – She names the main human-directed problems: jumping, biting, mouthing, and excessive leash biting.
- 07:00 – She explains six months is arbitrary and says very young puppies should not be put on e-collars.
- 08:00 – She says puppies should live with high structure instead of free access to counters, shoes, or cat boxes.
- 09:00 – She argues that more freedom makes puppies more distracted, harder to potty train, and more accident-prone.
- 10:00 – She says if you wait, the bad behavior already happened, leaving you stuck correcting or tolerating it.
- 11:00 – She calls giving a puppy slightly too much freedom the biggest mistake owners make.
- 12:00 – She says structured interaction lets you correct jumping and biting in real time while doing activities together.
- 13:00 – She says puppies need clear markers and real corrections so they understand the consequence of their behavior.
- 14:00 – She says early corrections create clear communication that helps later when the dog is older and more challenging.
- 15:00 – She compares corrections to building strength through resistance rather than leaving a dog soft and untested.
- 16:00 – She says puppies should not first experience corrections only when they are older, even though it can still be done.
- 17:00 – She says puppies learn that corrections are tied to behavior and that the sky is not falling.
- 18:00 – She says pushy puppies often become that way because nobody has consistently stopped them.
- 19:00 – She stresses saying ‘no’ before delivering a correction and explains the timing matters.
- 20:00 – She lists her safety rule: corrections must not cause harm and must stay within the dog’s ability to recover.
- 21:00 – She says puppies learn contingencies, not damage, when a behavior leads to something uncomfortable.
- 22:00 – She says spray bottles and noise makers can work temporarily, but puppies often become desensitized to them.
- 23:00 – She names the usual puppy correction tools: a bonker, leash pop, and for biting, lip pressure.
- 24:00 – She cautions that corrections must be uncomfortable, not harmful, and should match the puppy’s size and strength.
- 25:00 – She shares an example of a drivey hound puppy that seemed to enjoy the correction instead of respecting it.
- 26:00 – She explains that the owner increased intensity too slowly, which let the puppy become more resilient to it.
- 27:00 – She says a firmer first correction would have stopped the behavior instead of creating repeated problems.
- 28:00 – She argues that weak or gradual corrections teach puppies that the correction is meaningless.
- 29:00 – She says constant correcting is frustrating, harms the relationship, and usually means the dog is not learning.
- 30:00 – She says bonkers are useful, and leash pops are common for puppies older than about 12 weeks.
- 31:00 – She describes her lip-squeeze method for young puppies who bite, mouthing their snout until they squeak.
- 32:00 – She says to repeat the lip squeeze every time the puppy puts teeth on skin so the puppy gets the message.
- 33:00 – She explains that inconsistency or poor timing makes puppy correction take much longer.
- 34:00 – She says effective correction requires experience, precision, and consistent marker timing.
- 35:00 – She says good structure should already produce a puppy that does not jump, chew, or act chaotic in the kennel.
- 36:00 – She says the goal is to spend puppy time on food work, leash work, door manners, and commands instead of cleanup.
- 37:00 – She says puppies should mostly be in the kennel, with you, or outside so they do not rehearse bad house habits.
- 38:00 – She says a bonker must be firm enough to prevent desensitization but still safe for the puppy.
- 39:00 – She adds that a poke can be effective when timed with a marker and used without causing harm.
- 40:00 – She concludes that early puppy corrections build respect, but most puppy training should still rely on management.